Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a worldwide network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and lively culinary scene," according to a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially defined its essence: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from waking up until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and carts – hidden delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to learn these narratives and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
