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When compiling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect familiar high-end establishments. But, nestled prominently among these culinary titans is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

A Surprise Honour

This small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The honour has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I’m completely astonished,” says a owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their small shop achieving such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. When the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary honour.